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13-Aug-2017 06:55

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It's a smart, modern idea, but in spite of the sleek urban space with its various seating areas, floating fireplaces and split-level bar/lounges, Vapiano still feels like an Italian self-service cafeteria. I'm still wandering around, admiring the industrial pasta machine whirring away behind glass and the brigade of red-bandana'd chefs standing on call behind the long counters, when my wife turns up with a huge platter of antipasti. The antipasti plate (£8.50) is a wedding buffet of things you think you want to eat until you actually eat them. Next, I'm off to get water from the free jug on the counter. This is the first Vapiano in the UK (the name means "go slowly", which sits somewhat awkwardly with the idea of fast food), and the British franchisees hope to "grow" the concept to 25 sites.

Roasted vegetables are harsh with rosemary, mozzarella is lifeless, smoked salmon (smoked salmon? There are already 21 branches in Germany and 13 others across Europe and the US. There are engaging touches, such as pots of basil on the tables to raid for an instant garnish, "piazza seating" in the front window around a gnarled, old olive tree, and a "herb garden" in the vast first-floor space.

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But it is still a food court, pumping out greatest-hit pizzas (margherita, capricciosa, diavolo), pasta (Bolognese, arrabbiata, pomodoro) and antipasti (bruschetta, insalata Caprese, carpaccio).

An all-Italian wine list is short, serviceable and well-priced, and a fresh, peachy keen La Battistina Gavi di Gavi is good value at £22 a bottle or £5.75 a glass. Our Toscana pizza with salami, olives, tomatoes and mozzarella (£7.50) looks great – big, thin, and crisp-crusted – but it tastes of not much at all. The topping is heavy with rosemary, and includes that big pizza no-no: watery, diced fresh tomato.

Dried pasta would be better, but doesn't fit the concept. In theory, this is fun, fast and cheap fodder for the office crowd. Like most dining concepts, Vapiano is more about the concept than the dining.

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But the fresh pasta is too fresh, bypassing the al dente stage and going straight to mulchy and starchy before congealing.I was messing around one day and found a ton of pornography on it.

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